THE FIRST PROOF
Every experience has a visual and experiential representation through photography, illustration, product, video, digital, and physical environments. THE FIRST PROOF is another look at the formation of these experiences, focusing equally on creation and creator. It serves as an analysis of the creative inputs and outputs, and its influence.

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Friday
Oct062017

Womens S '18 Global Trends

Maybe it is just the Instagram and Alessandro Michele effect. More is more is more. More adornments mean that one will get photographed more and it means more followers. Maybe it is the effects of more fashion - more shows, more reviews, more seasons which is adding up to what seems to be fewer ideas, less change. There is a dulling of the senses with the overload. And that is our most significant report for the season. The most prominent trend is the pile-on of details which is starting to reach levels of excess. In The September Issue documentary, didn't Anna Wintour say "less is more."
 
But what do some of these trends say? With shimmer, ruffles and saturated color palettes, fashion is possibly looking for a bright spot, a little escape, and some fantasy. We do not comment on politics at The First Proof, but let's acknowledge the world isn’t in a positive of place. So bring on the distractions if that is what fashion has to fulfill at this moment in time. We should be clear that there are other ways to bring joy without having to resort to the idea of “more.” During a time when womens rights and empowerment is top of mind, the industry wants to create a hyper-feminized female image. Maybe the past few seasons emphasis on suits and jackets just didn’t go over well at retail.
 
The tide is turning though. There is a sobriety that is growing in a few collections, and this may work its way into future stories (see Calvin Klein, Jil Sander, Ports, and The Row). They all are starting to stand out for doing what everyone else isn’t. A few collections nodded to the Prada ‘90s - a quiet conservatism, a stricter modesty, and yes, the silhouettes of a uniform. But how would this all play with the overload of Instagram addicts or the current infatuation with Kira Kira? The answer is only six months away.
 
Here are the global trends from New York, London, Milan, and Paris. See all the selected looks on our Pinterest Collections Trend: Women S ’18 Board.
  • It has been two seasons of romance and flounce, and this has multiplied this season. After three seasons in a row, it may be time to start pulling back on this. Everyone from Isabel Marant to Louis Vuitton had an iteration. Nicolas Ghuesquiere managed to update the trend by exaggerating the proportions and pairing something very feminine with utility - the sneaker. 
  • Another trend that is overstaying its welcome is sequins, beading, embellishments - any form of shine. Maybe it is creatives fascination with the Kira Kira app that gives more sparkle to social images. Or everyone just hopes to be partying instead of worrying about current events. Monse and Valentino changed the perspective juxtapositioning this with sport and more casual details.
  • Denim and Trenchcoats are recut, spliced, reworked. These did look fresh in the hands of some of the best such as Mugler and Alexander McQueen.
  • Two trends that we would like to call the Raf Simons effect - Layered transparencies and Art. Last season Mr. Simons for Calvin Klein presented transparent overlays, and it seems to have caught on in a few iterations - clear plastics were present, but there were other versions. This idea wasn’t transparency to reveal the body but to reveal clothing underneath. As for Art, Mr. Simons for his label partnered with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation for S ’17. Art was in abundance during the S ‘18 season with the likes of Cindy Sherman, Keith Haring, and Niki de Saint Phalle working their way into the collections.
  • The 80s bubbles made popular by Christian Lacroix make a return. Saint Laurent did it best.
 
See all the selected looks on our Pinterest Collections Trend: Women S'18 Board.
 
Trenches
Maison Margiela
 
Transparent Layers
Fendi
 
Wearable Art
Undercover

A Shoulder
Monse
 
The Kira Kira Effect
Gucci
 
Ruffles & Frills
Louis Vuitton

Denim
Mugler

Bubbles
Saint Laurent
 
Brights
Fenty Puma
 
See all the selected looks on our Pinterest Collections Trend: Women S'18 Board.
Image Courtesy: Vogue.com

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