THE FIRST PROOF
Every experience has a visual and experiential representation through photography, illustration, product, video, digital, and physical environments. THE FIRST PROOF is another look at the formation of these experiences, focusing equally on creation and creator. It serves as an analysis of the creative inputs and outputs, and its influence.

Observations on fashion, art, design, and creativity. 

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Sunday
Oct082017

Best Collections Womens S’18

These are The First Proof’s selects for the best creative collections for Women’s S’18.
 
Mary Katrantzou
It is great to see growth with a brand, and this time Mary Katranzou stretch how she applied her signature prints to more volume. One of the best interpretations of one of the seasons best trends - the bubble. She also hit other trends but found a way to differentiate her approach.
 
 
Gareth Pugh 
Who cares if anyone will wear these clothes. Fashion needs to be challenged and needs new ideas. The fabrication and silhouettes were pure architecture. He creates memorable images in a sea of trend followers. There has been nothing quite like it since Alexander McQueen and Hussain Chalayan.
 
 
Christopher Kane
Like Katrantzou, Christopher Kane knows the balance of staying on trend but keeping them his own and not having them lead. Retro-future housewife doesn’t sound sexy, but the image he created of this woman was.
 
 
Maison Margiela
John Galliano keeps getting better and better. Maison Margiela is one brand that continues a great marriage of the original brand codes and Mr. Galliano’s aesthetics. The mundane (such as the trench) becomes something special in his hands. 
 
 
Céline
The show felt like Phoebe Philo was back to the beginning with Céline. Strong, masculine clothes but designed for a woman by a woman. While there was a lot of menswear influences which is a constant for Ms. Philo, it didn’t feel forced but delicately/softly reinterpreted.
 
 
Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello is finding his place at Saint Laurent. It was an emotional moment for the brand with Pierre Bergé’s passing, and the nod to Yves Saint Laurent and his own overt sexiness was well balanced. It is the first time we feel that Mr. Vaccarello let go of a particular objectification of women and was having fun - not one exposed breast in the presentation. A few more presentations like this and no one may remember who was the previous creative director of the brand. Another reason for the industry to give creatives more time to find themselves. Rihanna has already been spotted wearing the white furry boots.
 
  
Haider Ackerman 
Trends? What is a trend? With Haider Ackermann there is no such thing. He follows his own timeline. Maybe it is influence coming from learnings at Berluti, but this is was the best-tailored collection of the season. Frills, ruffles, draping? Not here. Hundreds of saturated colors not needed. This was edited down to the essentials and an evident vision. And that is what makes a creative vision memorable.
 
 
Jil Sander
Lucie and Luke Meier had a tough hill to climb; the brand has lost some of the excitement since Raf Simons led creative. There was a strictness to their first outing that will create news. Taking the original Sander codes such as shirts, suits, tailoring, the duo took a sacerdotal approach. Maybe it was metaphorical, a cleansing. The purity was striking. If the tide turns towards minimalism of the early 90s, they will be right on time.
 
 
 
Louis Vuitton
Finally, Nicolas Ghesquière let go of certain self-created boundaries, templates. He is an incredible mixologist. Maybe he needed to look back at his past work to remember why he is a revered talent in the industry. The frock coats are something we have seen from him at Balenciaga, and that is fine. Those ideas were great then, they are great now. With the addition of a few new elements (athletics and sneakers) what he was able to do this season is take previous inspirations and make them feel fresh.
 
 
Image Courtesy: Vogue.com

Related: Top Men's Spring '18 Collections

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